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MOBIRDS-L  April 2004, Week 2

MOBIRDS-L April 2004, Week 2

Subject:

Great Ecuador Trip--just got back--put it on your list

From:

Dick Dawson <[log in to unmask]>

Reply-To:

Dick Dawson <[log in to unmask]>

Date:

Sun, 11 Apr 2004 21:32:59 +0000

Content-Type:

text/plain

Parts/Attachments:

Parts/Attachments

text/plain (141 lines)

ECUADOR TRIP REPORT TO  MOBIRDS.....MARCH  19 - APRIL 4, 2004

Ellie and I returned last   week from two weeks including the equinox on the
equator-where it's always equinox and always summer.   We were delighted to
find we hadn't missed the flowering bulbs and trees  of  spring in
mid-America.

The first week was with a Carleton College alumni group and an Oregon Nature
Conservancy group, based on the Lindblad ship Polaris, visiting seven of the
islands with 44 bird species including 29 lifers including 6 of the 13
Darwin's finches (you may recall Darwin himself did not identify his
specimens as to islands, since he did not yet realize the later evolutionary
importance of the isolated islands.    Everybody knows about the Galapagos
and what to expect, and it does not disappoint.     It is true that you have
to be careful not to accidentally step on sea lions or iguanas, and may have
to back up to get the bird photos you want.     Most people also know
Lindblad sets the standard for ecotourism, and the contribute 15% to
conservation on the islands which has included nearly wiping out the feral
goats on Santiago Island over the past ten years (with the result that new
plant species are being discovered that previously had not had the chance to
grow up to be recognizable).   Three percent of the land of the islands is
open to residential and farm uses; 97% is protected national park, and of
that only 1% is open to tourists in carefully monitored walks led by
licensed naturalist/guides.     Recently the islands have also been closed
to nearly all immigration from mainland Ecuador, and new training and
certification for guides is now limited to legal island residents, giving an
impetus to the kids to pay attention to classes in ecology and conservation
so they can become interpretive naturalists for visitors.

However, I am not sending this out to talk about the Galapagos, but to
suggest while you are there to spend time birding on the mainland. We looked
in Birding and other magazines, searched   some websites, and contacted
Mindo Bird Tours (www.mindobirds.com.ec,) operated by former Texan Dr. Jane
Lyons ([log in to unmask]), which offered custom tours anywhere or everywhere
in Ecuador, whenever desired-we wanted about a week following the Galapagos
tour.      Jane immediately replied with an example of an example itinerary
with pickup at the international airport in Quito from our return flight
from the islands, and day-trips out from a lodge in the cloud forests above
the town of Mindo, listing different bird specialties for each day.    She
sets up tours for from two to six people, including private vehicle,
lodging, all meals and entry fees to private reserves.   We replied that
we'd also like to get into the highlands, hopefully see condors, and she
said that would be fine, and assigned us one of the great young (27)
birders, Edison Buenano, to pick us up and be our personal guide for the
week.     Edison's life list now includes about 1200 of the 1600 species in
Ecuador, and he guides anywhere from the Amazon up and over the Andes and
down to the western coast and on to the Galapagos, and he knows everywhere
to go and what to expect at each stop, comes equipped with CD's of the calls
to use in bringing  out  the  specialties, and is great fun to travel with.
     We recommend MindoBirds wholeheartedly along with Edison---Jane
contracts with about 5 other guides, and Edison also leads tours for another
group but his first allegiance is to Jane's folks.    While







We did not get to see condors on our initial excursion up into  the Andean
highlands paramo and east  slope due  to clouds shrouding Mt. Antisana (when
clear, Edison said he can set up his  scope and there  are always condors
flying around the peak)---we drove through rain and sleet on our way to the
lodge where we spent the  first night, including relaxing in the  hot
springs.    Then we went down into the Andean foothills forests,
cloudforest, subtropical montane forest, and into the agricultural areas for
the rest of the week, with nights at the excellent Sachatamiya lodge which
has its own private forest reserve and a great chef.   For our last day
Ellie wanted to go to the famous native market in Otovalo, and Edison was
happy to oblige;  we had an early morning flight (6:30)  out of Quito, so
Jane  arranged for him to take us  to an excellent hotel, and for a driver
to pick us up to take us to the airport the next morning---any arrangements
we  wanted.    Our final list for seven days came to 191 species (plus 39
that Edison identified by sight or voice but we didn't get a good enough
look at to count), of which 182 were lifers for one or both of us.    In the
past five year, a number of sites have built hummingbird gardens with
feeders, so instead of just occasional sightings at flowering trees, we had
37 hummers at 5 sites including our lodge.   There were also 35 tanagers and
allies.  Although we had previously been in Costa Rica (from Monteverde to
both coasts), and in Peru (Lima, Cuzco, valley down to Machu Picchu, and
Tahuayou river Amazon tributary near Iquitos), there was very little overlap
in species from those sites.     There were a few homies---turkey vultures
and now house wrens are residents, and while the Swainson's thrushes and
most species that come up here for a few months to raise babies had left the
previous week, we did still have Blackburnians around.     To me the
highlight was the result of getting up at 3:45 for a flashlight climb up a
steep switch-back trail over treeroots and rocks to what is described as one
of the most accessible leks for the spectacular Cock-of-the-Rocks.     About
8 males began calling in the dark before 6 am, and became visible from the
primitive shelter as light began to filter through the trees.   For the next
hour they called, postured, knocked each other off perches, as they do every
morning it's not raining so hard that  no one climbs up to check.    The
girls show up in June or July, but the guys have dawn scrimmages year-round
to keep in shape.

So if you are going to the Galapagos, be sure to add on a week or two on the
mainland, and contact Mindo Bird Tours with your desires.    If your
Galapagos excursion offers an extension to Cuzco and Machu Picchu, take that
and then add on an Ecuador trip that Jane Lyons will be happy to arrange.
The birds you see there won't be redundant of those in Peru.   You'll
probably want to get a copy of at least Volume II of The Birds of Ecuador by
Robert Ridgely and Paul Greenfield (he was at Sachatamia lodge our first
night there), although your guide will also have a copy, and you may want to
take it to Kinko's to have the color plates removed and spiral-bound for
ease in  the field.     Incidentally, I don't know how it is other seasons,
but we saw few mosquitoes and slept with our screenless windows open in the
lodge to the sounds of the frogs.     If you have a chance to bird with
Edison Buenano   (there's one of those little squiggly Spanish things over
the second "n" but I don't know how to get the computer to do that-it's
Espanol for "GoodYear")  you won't  be disappointed.   This trip puts me in
sight of hitting 1000, and already makes 2004's list bigger than any other
single year's, including the 158 I had after my first year of birding with
Burroughs Audubon in 1949.

--Dick Dawson
5804 Charlotte
Kansas City, MO 64110-3019
816-361-9141
[log in to unmask]

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March 2007, Week 2
March 2007, Week 1
February 2007, Week 4
February 2007, Week 3
February 2007, Week 2
February 2007, Week 1
January 2007, Week 5
January 2007, Week 4
January 2007, Week 3
January 2007, Week 2
January 2007, Week 1
December 2006, Week 5
December 2006, Week 4
December 2006, Week 3
December 2006, Week 2
December 2006, Week 1
November 2006, Week 5
November 2006, Week 4
November 2006, Week 3
November 2006, Week 2
November 2006, Week 1
October 2006, Week 5
October 2006, Week 4
October 2006, Week 3
October 2006, Week 2
October 2006, Week 1
September 2006, Week 5
September 2006, Week 4
September 2006, Week 3
September 2006, Week 2
September 2006, Week 1
August 2006, Week 5
August 2006, Week 4
August 2006, Week 3
August 2006, Week 2
August 2006, Week 1
July 2006, Week 5
July 2006, Week 4
July 2006, Week 3
July 2006, Week 2
July 2006, Week 1
June 2006, Week 5
June 2006, Week 4
June 2006, Week 3
June 2006, Week 2
June 2006, Week 1
May 2006, Week 5
May 2006, Week 4
May 2006, Week 3
May 2006, Week 2
May 2006, Week 1
April 2006, Week 5
April 2006, Week 4
April 2006, Week 3
April 2006, Week 2
April 2006, Week 1
March 2006, Week 5
March 2006, Week 4
March 2006, Week 3
March 2006, Week 2
March 2006, Week 1
February 2006, Week 4
February 2006, Week 3
February 2006, Week 2
February 2006, Week 1
January 2006, Week 5
January 2006, Week 4
January 2006, Week 3
January 2006, Week 2
January 2006, Week 1
December 2005, Week 5
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December 2005, Week 3
December 2005, Week 2
December 2005, Week 1
November 2005, Week 5
November 2005, Week 4
November 2005, Week 3
November 2005, Week 2
November 2005, Week 1
October 2005, Week 5
October 2005, Week 4
October 2005, Week 3
October 2005, Week 2
October 2005, Week 1
September 2005, Week 5
September 2005, Week 4
September 2005, Week 3
September 2005, Week 2
September 2005, Week 1
August 2005, Week 5
August 2005, Week 4
August 2005, Week 3
August 2005, Week 2
August 2005, Week 1
July 2005, Week 5
July 2005, Week 4
July 2005, Week 3
July 2005, Week 2
July 2005, Week 1
June 2005, Week 5
June 2005, Week 4
June 2005, Week 3
June 2005, Week 2
June 2005, Week 1
May 2005, Week 5
May 2005, Week 4
May 2005, Week 3
May 2005, Week 2
May 2005, Week 1
April 2005, Week 5
April 2005, Week 4
April 2005, Week 3
April 2005, Week 2
April 2005, Week 1
March 2005, Week 5
March 2005, Week 4
March 2005, Week 3
March 2005, Week 2
March 2005, Week 1
February 2005, Week 4
February 2005, Week 3
February 2005, Week 2
February 2005, Week 1
January 2005, Week 5
January 2005, Week 4
January 2005, Week 3
January 2005, Week 2
January 2005, Week 1
December 2004, Week 5
December 2004, Week 4
December 2004, Week 3
December 2004, Week 2
December 2004, Week 1
November 2004, Week 5
November 2004, Week 4
November 2004, Week 3
November 2004, Week 2
November 2004, Week 1
October 2004, Week 5
October 2004, Week 4
October 2004, Week 3
October 2004, Week 2
October 2004, Week 1
September 2004, Week 5
September 2004, Week 4
September 2004, Week 3
September 2004, Week 2
September 2004, Week 1
August 2004, Week 5
August 2004, Week 4
August 2004, Week 3
August 2004, Week 2
August 2004, Week 1
July 2004, Week 5
July 2004, Week 4
July 2004, Week 3
July 2004, Week 2
July 2004, Week 1
June 2004, Week 5
June 2004, Week 4
June 2004, Week 3
June 2004, Week 2
June 2004, Week 1
May 2004, Week 5
May 2004, Week 4
May 2004, Week 3
May 2004, Week 2
May 2004, Week 1
April 2004, Week 5
April 2004, Week 4
April 2004, Week 3
April 2004, Week 2
April 2004, Week 1
March 2004, Week 5
March 2004, Week 4
March 2004, Week 3
March 2004, Week 2
March 2004, Week 1
February 2004, Week 5
February 2004, Week 4
February 2004, Week 3
February 2004, Week 2
February 2004, Week 1
January 2004, Week 5
January 2004, Week 4
January 2004, Week 3
January 2004, Week 2
January 2004, Week 1
December 2003, Week 5
December 2003, Week 4
December 2003, Week 3
December 2003, Week 2
December 2003, Week 1
November 2003, Week 5
November 2003, Week 4
November 2003, Week 3
November 2003, Week 2
November 2003, Week 1
October 2003, Week 5
October 2003, Week 4
October 2003, Week 3
October 2003, Week 2
October 2003, Week 1
September 2003, Week 5
September 2003, Week 4
September 2003, Week 3
September 2003, Week 2
September 2003, Week 1
August 2003, Week 5
August 2003, Week 4
August 2003, Week 3
August 2003, Week 2
August 2003, Week 1
July 2003, Week 5
July 2003, Week 4
July 2003, Week 3
July 2003, Week 2
July 2003, Week 1
June 2003, Week 5
June 2003, Week 4
June 2003, Week 3
June 2003, Week 2
June 2003, Week 1
May 2003, Week 5
May 2003, Week 4
May 2003, Week 3
May 2003, Week 2
May 2003, Week 1
April 2003, Week 5
April 2003, Week 4
April 2003, Week 3
April 2003, Week 2
April 2003, Week 1
March 2003, Week 5
March 2003, Week 4
March 2003, Week 3
March 2003, Week 2
March 2003, Week 1
February 2003, Week 4
February 2003, Week 3
February 2003, Week 2
February 2003, Week 1
January 2003, Week 5
January 2003, Week 4
January 2003, Week 3
January 2003, Week 2
January 2003, Week 1
December 2002, Week 5
December 2002, Week 4
December 2002, Week 3
December 2002, Week 2
December 2002, Week 1
November 2002, Week 5
November 2002, Week 4
November 2002, Week 3
November 2002, Week 2
November 2002, Week 1
October 2002, Week 5
October 2002, Week 4
October 2002, Week 3
October 2002, Week 2
October 2002, Week 1
September 2002, Week 5
September 2002, Week 4
September 2002, Week 3
September 2002, Week 2
September 2002, Week 1
August 2002, Week 5
August 2002, Week 4
August 2002, Week 3
August 2002, Week 2
August 2002, Week 1
July 2002, Week 5
July 2002, Week 4
July 2002, Week 3

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